Depths/heights

Floor to ceiling 2700

Tension cable 400

Beam 300

Card (no extra depth)

Bondeck 54

Flooring 12

Just a thought

for the cardboard beam is there a reason we are using corrugated card? why not use solid card eg. strawboard, it would require more card but it would increase the strength.(??)

see you tomorrow

Question

Hey Girls,

been looking at roofing, and different sizing for componets, particular the parapet roof. And i was thinking we could have a smaller parapet if our roof is shaped like /\ rather than \/....and it wouldmeanthe overall height wouldn't be as big, but instead of a box gutter running through the middle of the roof it woul run aroun the edge. I am not sure if we are allowed to do this, cause wouldn't be exactly a box gutter, but would make joining the wall structure and the roof much more simple. Rulla, your looking at the box gutter thing, what do you think... or should we just stick with \/ shape???

flooring

well i've been looking at the different types of bamboo flooring we can have
- like normal hardwood timber floors, planks of laminated bamboo
- square sheets of laminated bamboo, ends up looking like normal
- woven bamboo in sheets, more like a woven bamboo mat in looks
- small bamboo saplings/cane, so lots of them lined up along floor, doesn't produce such as flat smooth finish as the rest.

i'm in favour of the saplings as it carries our circles/tubes onto the floor, or the woven bamboo as more authentic however in terms of practicality one of the first two would be better.
thoughts and opinions

this stuff is prob out of date now... but anyway

first image: tube arrangement in particular the minimum structural ones, the more dense ones (slightly thicker pen weight- sorry no colour)

2nd image: just possible wall configurations- some of the issue i've raised need some clarification.

hey all
i was thinking that for our columns, they don't actually need to be 300, we could just have 150, but maybe for the interior columns we go up to 300, just to be extra sure it will work. also on the ground floor we may need to have two rows of tubes on the exterior walls, one row to support the floor above and the next row to go all the way up, cos otherwise we will see every now and then a tube stoping, supporting a beam or lintel and starting again. which could look messy, or interesting depending on how we treat it. let me know thoughts on this... as in the mean time i'll work on both.
elise tyres sound good

Roof Material

Hey Girls,

sorry something else i forgot t add, i have been looking at roofing materials. I have discovered a Corugated Bituminous Roofing (made from recycled tyres). They are reasonalbly light weight and i think would do the job quite nicely. If anyone had any problems with this selction please let me know. If you what to check it out the web site is www.arielplastics.com

section allocations

Hey sorry forgot to post this earlier

REVISED SITE

NOTE: garage step not included

Meikala do you have the stair rise?

Notes from Yesterday

Hey girls here are the sketches we had from yesterdays group meeting. Also i am making up a group folder for us. Please also keep/print all AS - resources and there will be a section in the folder where it will all be kept. Good luck. And keep working on it. Have a wonderful weeekend

amendments to slab

just a few things to note:

1. the waffle slab should sit on the fill, see next post on slab, not below as dwan in my last post

2. there will be a step from the garage to main floor see image on left, this is to prevent dust and minimise air entering throuh garage. this will have the same rise as the stairs found within the building

ALSO...
the wall between the garage and living area

are we going to have a skin, as on the outer walls??? this wall in theory is the same as an outer wall so it should have some kind of skin to prevent air movement between the rooms

i think that we could use either use the same material as used on the externa walls or another lighter material, if the tubes used to inclose the garage are water proof we could have exposed tubes without a skin on the outer wall and the skin on the shared wall

LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK

Rose this might be something that you look into

SITE: cut and fill

i have posted the revised site excavations,

i hope that you can all read it if not let me know and i will email you a copy, i have tried to inclued all the dimentions needed to draw it, however i am sorry if i have missed any (let me know and i will fix it). i have included a basic waffle raft slab as decided on in our meeting today, i have used the relevant AS, however due to copyright issues etc. (and the fact that none of you really need to know, but if you want to check it is AS2870 clause 5 and 6) i will not post them. also i haven't included gradients just to let you know 1 to 2 for the fill and 50mm over 1m for the slope away from the slab on both sides. it is controlled sand fill, protected by a layer of re-used stripped topsoil.

NOTE: drainage is not included in the above image

also the slab cut the other way will be similar but i will post again on the details of that.

RE: roofing material

hey elise i like the sound of the corrugated fiber cement roofing, i had a quick look around but couldn't find much on it, i am not sure if i have heard of it before, but am happy to go with it.

Roofing material

Hey Girls,

hope you have all recovered from studio submission. I was just looking at different types of materials that we could possibly use for the roof.
1. Glass
2. corrugated fibre cement sheeting
3. metal ( aluminium, lead, copper, stainless steel, galvanised steel, zinc
4. membrane
or we can go for more old school tiles etc.

but the corrugated fibre cemebt seeting has a 's' shape, which would blend in well with the tubes.

any prefrances???

SITE

hey, i hope that studio is going well and that you got some time off uni and work. i was just going through my notes for the site and footings and was thinking about the orientation, i don't think we should change it however we may want to increase the amount of north glazing...not sure how or if it is important for this project, have a think about it and we can decide next time we meet up.

also i have started putting my notes together, do we wanted to post them here or just use the folder on dso

i'll see you all tuesday...

Box Gutter

Sorry i finished this on thursday night, but scanner wasnt working. these are basically the dimensions of our box gutter. there are obviously no details as to connections and so forth because we need to decide on skins and structure first. but this also outlines the roof line and maximum heights at the points of contact with the parapets. the gradient is 1:6 and the scale i have drawn the section to is 1:50.

RE: Stair Connection

Daniella, at the moment the stairs are independent of the walls, as I think the walls will be dealing with enough load from the upper storey and roof (depending on which structure we choose). Therefore, the stairs will be connected to the slab, with hold-down bolts, so the slab will probably need to be thickened.

RE: structure

hey, just to clarify...

(i think...?) we can have:

1. tubes filled with concrete or steel (structural) and waterproofed.... (or something similar)
2. tubes that are non structural with an outer structural skin
3. upper floor supported by tubes filled with concrete or steel (structural) and an additional skin to support the roof...steel etc. (which is connected to the inner skin)
4. tubes as above (structural) with an outer non structural skin (waterproof layer) which is connected to inner skin
5. (maybe some other combination???)

i like the idea of two skins with only one being structural (option 4)

just my thoughts, i am happy either way

structures

im for leaving them as two separate structures. one paper structure, which is the main building frame and support. then the skin structure.. i just think it would be good if we could somehow incorporate paper into the skins as well. because there will also be some cool details in how we connect or "Create" a connection between the 2 structures also...
just my opinion.

as for the box gutter, work is under way as we speak. hopefully i will have it figured out soon

Re; skins & main structure

Just one other thing, which will impact significantly on the walls and roof. Are we going to use the skin structure to support the roof structure??? ie. A steel frame - which supports the external skin and waterproofs the tubes, or are we going to make the cardboard structure strong enough - concrete/possible steel to support the roof. What do you think???

YAY!! SKIN SKETCHES

hey guys, finally been able to connect to the internet (im at uni now) so here starts my contribution. now the following images are the tutorial notes and feedback, some initial ideas on how to attach the skin to the paper tubes and a few notes from the lecture (if hypothetically a few people from our blog maybe couldnt make it hehe cough cough). 

now the first few images are some rough sketches. now that i have been able to read and see some elevations and a possible skin preference from Elise i will go back to doing some more construction drawings. will post more in a few days for you guys to see where im going.

i was also going with the idea of attaching the steel frame to the tubes that are going to be filled with concrete. could i wreak the structural integrity of the paper tubing if i attach bolts to them???  

hope everyone's break is going well. 

peace out 

comments

STAIRS:

i like the stairs, are they going to be connected to the slab? we might need to thicken the slab in this area if we are going to have cast in bolts

BOX GUTTER:

i agree with you Elise the parapet doesn't look too high, also if we have an exposed or slopping ceiling it will not be wasted space anyway.

FOOTING:

if we are having all the tubes filled with reinforced concrete i don't think there would be a need for steel posts, it would be like insitu concrete without the formwork removed, in this case we would need a deepened strip footing anyway even if we have a few that have steel sections inside (unless they are holding a significantly larger load eg. the second floor) i think that there would be no need for piles, as long as the weight is distributed relatively evenly...

however if we are using a steel section ( UB SHS CHS etc.) inside as the primary support we would need to use piles....

i don't think we need to use both systems i think we can choose either, concrete insitu or steel post and beam

i have posted a quick sketch of the options...i hope it makes sense

Paper Tube Stair

Hey girls,

Hope your holidays are going well.

I have come up with a rough detail for the paper tube stairs. I have gone with the tubes standing vertically so that you can see them through the glass treads as this seemed to be everyone's preference on Thursday.


ABOVE: Section through stair tread


ABOVE: Horizontal section through walls showing stairs and paper tubes under stairs in plan. I based this detail from a detail I found at

I can't work out the exact going and riser dimensions until the height of our structure is decided upon. But this is easy enough to work out from the BCA and AS 1657-1992, once the height is determined.

I have also included some pictures I found of other paper stairs, in case you want me to adapt our stairs to any of these. But I think having the tubes vertical shows off our construction within the stairs.


ABOVE: Paper Brick House at Venice Biennale, paper tubes placed horizontally. Both these pictures are from

Also, has Rose been invited to this blog? I don't see her name under contributors.

oooops!

no, theres room for more than 2 oops!! haha! talk tomorrow!!

Box Gutter, etc

Elise I agree with you, I think that the gutter running the other way makes more sense. And all we'd have to do is put expansion joints between lengths of the box gutter to keep it stable because it will be fairly long running this way. however, downpipes might be an issue.. there will only be 2 im guessing. i will have to work more on this tomoro and update you girls then, cool?

Site / Footings

Hey Dani,

Good job on your area. I think a cut fill slab is good, with strip footings. On thursday i thought we had roughly decided to go with what Yoke was saying and using the cardboard tubes and filling them with concrete, and some with composite of steel/concrete, for those important stratural members, ie. to support a steel beam across the garage. If we were using that type of strucure it would be best to go with piles???

Parapet & other

Here is what i have looked at so far with the parapet stuff, the blue is the wall/skin and this detail will prob have to be adjusted depening on what Rose comes up with. There roof can be simply made up with carboard tubes but with steel holding up the structure. then i have just put a corrugated roof on top of the tubes, but again this can be discussed as what type of roof we want because you will be able to see it through the trussed tubes.

These are two roof plans showing the possible layout of the gutter, i am sure there are many more ways we can lay it out, yet these two are the most reasonable ones i can come up with, Rulla you have prob looked at a similar thing, sorry. But if we go with the top one, we would have a parapet roof of 1.5m roughly. Dani - you stated earlier that you were unsure about this. Well i did some quick sketches up of 3 elevations with the 1.5m parapet, its not too bad. And the minimum requirement for a parapet is 765mm.

SITE/FOOTING

Footing: the footing depends on what we decide to do with the site I suggest that we do a cut and fill, with a strip footing however if we have a post and beam system it may be more practical to have piles. however if we use controlled fill and extend out edge beam to the undisturbed ground (deepened strip footing) it should be able to support a post and beam system, see AS 2870 p. 52 (I will bring a copy of it with me to next class) the sizes etc

i have drawn up in cad the site with the cut and fill (not sure of the quality that it will be here because i had to save it as a jpg (i will post it separately just in case it doesn't work)

the joint i have thought about the joing between the footing and structure however it depends on the walls...have we decided what we are doing with them?

SITE: with the site we can:

• cut
• fill
• cut and fill
• suspended slab
• stepped slab

(i would post drawings however i am having issues with blogger when i have more images per post and i think you all know what they are)

what i think we should go with...

cut and filled site with a deepened strip footing

Box Gutter and other notes

hey I hope you all had a wonderful Easter

i think that depending on the elevation a 1.5m parapet will look strange, maybe we should draw some elevations and see how it looks....i think keep the parapet as low as possible, but i guess if we want to use the paper / cardboard we will have to have it higher.

I still think that if we are using paper as our material we should be using it as a structural element as much as possible (or at lest using it as much as possible) other wise we are doing steel or timber post and beam with an infill...

for the wall construction are we filling all the tubes with concrete or are we going to have a post and beam system? i will post the information on the slab/footing soon but at the moment there are quiet a few options and until we choose one i will not exactly know the footing details

RE; parapet roof - rulla's pre comment

Hey Girls,

hope your all feeling great and having a wonderful holiday and not feel sick from eating too many chocolates.

yes it has to be a 1:6 slope, but if we have the box gutter going the East - West the parapet would only have to be 1 metre high. A min height for a parapet is 762mm, plus depending on what we decided to build the roof out of will also add another 458mm on top of that - ie. if it is a combustible roofing material (paper) we have to put tha extra height on the parapet wall.

So if we put the box gutter in the other direction, we would end up with a parapetheight on 1m-1.5 depending on what we decided to build the roof out of. What do you think???? This would also mean that the box gutter is going over clear span area (which means more concrete and steel in the paper tubes to support the structure). Are you guys still happy with sticking to the cardboard/steel roof or would you guys prefer another type of material???

Parapet Roof

hi girlies!
happy easter!!

ive bn working on the box gutters, except in order to get them exactly right i need to know how high our parapets are going to be and the rise in our roof line. i began my calculations following an example and they have used a 1:6 rise, which means we will have a parapet of over 3m. which im sure is beyond ridiculous haha

does anybody know of a general parapet height? or has anybody working on the roof come up with something?

SITE: cut & fill

Hey,

( just before i forget to ask....)

i was thinking because we are using steel (or other material) as the structural support in the building do we still want to cut and fill the site??? i will post a range of possible ideas (after Easter....when i get a chance to do them) but i just thought i would check so that i can design the footing system to suit. if you could let me know before Wednesday it would be good.

Happy Easter!!!!